Tools Required:
•Basic set of metric and standard sockets and wrenches.
•Sawzall or reciprocating saw.
•Dremel tool with cut-off wheels and grinding stones.
•Benzomatic torch w/ Mapp gas.
•Soldering gun or wire crimpers.

Additional Parts:
•Idler pulley (Pulley from A/C Delete Bracket works well)
•1-1/2” x 1-1/2” x 6” Piece of “L” steel
•1-1/2” x 1-1/2” x 6” Piece of flat stock steel
•New 6 Rib serpentine belt Dayco 52-1/2” (May Differ)
•Miscellaneous washers and bolts (Grade 8 )
•Small length of wire to lengthen alternator plug (18 Gauge)

Disassembly Steps:
1) Get the front of the car up on jack stands so you can comfortably work from underneath and up top. I jacked up the front and rear.
2) Disconnect battery and remove for easier access to that side of the motor.
3) Remove serpentine belt.
4) Remove Alternator (ALT) connections followed by the alternator itself. I believe there are (3-4) 13mm bolts holding it in place.
5) Disconnect the Power Steering (PS) fluid hose and PS hard line connections to the pump. Remove (2) 10mm bolts, they are accessed through the PS pulley, so you will need a long socket or extension.
6) Remove the front sway bar and end-links to gain access to the AC compressor.
7) Remove Air Conditioning (AC) Compressor lines, rear bracket, and compressor unit. There are (3) 13mm bolts on the front of the unit.
8 ) Remove the spark plug wires that route along the accessory bracket.
9) Remove the (4) 14mm bolts holding the Accessory Bracket (AB) to the passenger side cylinder head and block and pull the accessory bracket out of the car.
10) Remove the (2) 10mm belt tensioner bolts and tensioner.

Bracket Modification/Fabrication:
A) Cut AB as needed to get the ALT as close to the bracket as possible.

B) Make additional cuts to the AB as needed to allow the spark plug wires easy access to the Optispark.

C) Cut an appropriate length of 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” “L” channel to create the bracket that will bolt to the AB and back of the ALT.
D) Drill 1 hole large enough to run a bolt through the top hole of the alternator so that is can pass through the bracket and be bolted from the back. I used the longest 13mm bolt which held the ALT in place up top.
E) Drill (2) 5/16” Holes through the AB and L-Channel. These holes will allow the L-channel to be bolted to the AB. I used (2) 5/16” x 1” Grade 8 Hardware with washers and lock nuts.

F) Cut an appropriate length of Flat Stock Steel approximately 2” x 6”to create the extension bracket that will bolt to the side of the engine block and back of the ALT.

G) Drill (2) 5/16” Holes through the flat stock. These holes will allow the flat stock to be bolted to the Block Bracket. I used (2) 5/16” x 1” Grade 8 Hardware with washers and lock nuts.
H) Drill (1) additional hole to bolt flat stock to the back of the alternator. Washers will be needed to fill up some of the gap between the bracket and alternator. Refer to picture above.
I) It is also possible that (1) ear on the alternator will need to be cut a small amount. This will help with the serpentine belt alignment. I felt it necessary to cut the ear on the alternator because that hole does not have threads, and the AB does.

J) Disassemble all brackets and parts, prep and spray paint or coat as you wish.

In Car Assembly:
1) Bolt ALT to AB and bolt motor with (4) 14mm bolts.
2) Bolt PS Pump to AB and tighten the (2) 10mm PS bolts. Connect the PS hard line to the threaded hole in the pump and tighten. Make sure you do not lose the o-ring.
3) Bending or heating of the hard line may be needed in order to route the PS hard line correctly around the ALT and down to the PS Rack. This took quite a bit of trial and error in my application. A wire coat hanger can be bent and used as a good reference. I used a Benzomatic torch with Mapp gas to heat the tubing in order to bend.
4) Connect the other end of the PS hard line to the steering rack and tighten.
5) Lengthen the ALT connection wire about 6”-8”. I used solder and electrical tape and hid the wire in the loom before routing it down to make the connection to the ALT.
6) Route your Spark Plug wires down to the Optispark and connect. Make sure the correct wires are on the correct leads.
7) Connect the large rubber PS reservoir hose to the PS pump. I used a new hose clamp for this.
8 ) Bolt in your idler pulley to the top of the AB and tighten.
9) Install tensioner and tighten (2) 10mm bolts.
10) Route your serpentine belt. Check for interference between any hoses, wires, or objects.
11) Re-fill PS reservoir as needed
12) Re-Install front sway bar including endlinks.
13) Re-Install battery and connect cables.
14) Turn over motor and check for leaks, sounds, belt clearance. Add fluids if necessary. Also have someone blip the throttle a few times to make sure the alternator does not contact the frame.

Finished Results:

1. The first thing is to relieve the pressure off the shrader valve on the fuel line, located beside the fuel pressure regulator on the rear of the intake.
2. Remove the fuel lines using the correct fuel line disconnect tool.
3. Then remove fuel lines from clip on inner fender.
4. Then Jack up drivers side front, place jack stand under car and remove drivers side front wheel.
5. Then remove inner fender
6. At the point where the fuel lines go thru the inner fender you can there push the Grommet for the fuel lines out of fender.
7. Carefully cut the grommet on the bottom side and remove it from the lines. ( Do this in a neat way as this grommet will be reused)
8. Gently pull the fuel lines thru the inner fender.
Looking to down on the brake master cylinder, to the right of it there is a small flat area (see picture) and in this place you will drill a 2” hole from the inside of wheel well.

10. Then you will need a 2” grommet or rubber pipe coupler to place in the holes.
11. Then the part where you must be careful, the fuel lines can be kinked but if you take your time there is no issue. Gently push the fuel lines thru the grommet.
12. Then route them behind the power brake booster and come in from the back side of the intake.

13. Connect fuel lines up to the fuel rail.
14. Pull any slack back out from under hood, ensure lines are free and clear.
15. Carefully loop the fuel lines one time in a large loop. Then start where they come up from the subframe at thru the plastic holder and I used some zip ties about every 3”’s around the loop keeping it uniform.
16. Then I mounted one bracket inside inner fender just to fasten the lines to in one spot and fastened them to it keeping it pulled tight against body.
17. Replace inner fender, replace tire, jack back up and remove stand, then lower car back on to ground.
18. Reinstall grommet in fender
19. Smile as you have just completed the mod.

This write up was done by LALT1

Many of you are familiar with seafoam, some have no idea what it is. Well, for all those that are interested, seafoam is multipurpose, 100% petroleum product you can pick up at any local auto store (napa, advance, autozone, etc). It is used to clean carbon buildup from your engine, clean your injectors, clean your oil and a whole lot more. To familiarize you with the products, this is what i am talking about:

Seafoam:

Seafoam Deep Creep:

Uses of Seafoam

i would first like to state for the record that seafoam is NOT a power adder. all seafoam does is clean out the gunk inside your engine and injectors. this will do nothing more than restore any horsepower/fuel economy you have lost due to years of dirt and grime inside your engine. any power you pick up along the way is because it has just been supressed by the filthy engine and is now free again.

if you are losing power and mpg due to carbon buildup, if you are experiencing pinging and if you’re having trouble passing emissions test, seafoam may be your answer (yes, seafoam will actually reduce your emissions if carbon buildup is causing dirty exhaust fumes!). feeling the pinch at the pump lately? well, seafoam can be used to pick up a few extra mpg you have lost over the years and reduce or elimiate your engine ping by cleaning out your cylinders!

What You Need to Seafoam Your Engine:

in order to maximize your engine’s fuel economy and performance, you should do a full engine treatment. in order to do so, you will need a few things:

- 2 cans of seafoam (1st picture above)
- 1 can of seafoam deep creep (2nd picture above)
- flat head screwdriver
- pliers
- 1 long, skinny funnel

okay, now that you have all the necessary tools to complete the job, let’s talk about how to use seafoam:

How To Seafoam Your Car:

Part One: Injector Cleaning

this is the easiest part of the process. simply drive to the gas station and completely fill up your tank with 91+ octane gasoline as usual. take 1 of the 2 cans of seafoam in the requirements above. this can of seafoam will be poured directly into your gas tank. now, seafoam makes a great product but they didn’t think too hard when they designed their can. you need a funnel in order to dump it into your gas tank. do not try to be cool and try and beat gravity by jamming the can into your gas tank. i tried that. all i got was a car that smelled like gas and wasted seafoam on the ground. take the long skinny funnel, put it in your gas tank, shake the can of seafoam up and pour the entire can of seafoam into the tank. then, take your car for a nice ride so the seafoam swishes and mixes in your gas tank. the seafoam will clean out your injectors nicely. try and run this tank pretty low before filling up so you don’t dilute the mixture with more gasoline. this way, you get the maximum cleaning power of seafoam.

Part Two: Cleaning Your Oil System

as you all should know, f-bodies require 5.5 quarts of oil. seafoam is to be added directly into your crankcase in order to cleanse the oil. yes, you heard me, you’re pouring a foreign mixture directly into your engine oil. this can be scary for newbies. never fear, seafoam is 100% petroleum. it is as harmful to your engine as water is to your skin - not harmful at all. the correct measurement for seafoam is 1.5 ounces per quart of oil in your crankcrase. simple math tells us:

(1.5) X (5.5) = 8.25 ounces

a can of seafoam is 16 ounces, so for simplicity’s sake, we’ll add half a can directly into the ENGINE OIL spout. NOTE: i recommend pouring the seafoam into your oil when the car is cold. i would not recommend pouring a room temperature liquid into 200+ degree oil after the car is hot. last thing you wanna do is shock your valve springs.

run the seafoam in your oil for NO MORE THAN 250 miles! seafoam is very agressive. your next oil change will be black as satan’s heart and likely thicker than usual. i would not recommend running this oil very long in the car as your oil filter is going to have quite the time on its hands and the oil won’t be in the best of shape afterwards. i’ll say it again. change your oil less than 250 miles after you put seafoam in your crankcase! i personally recommend running it 100 miles, then changing your oil. that should be plenty for the seafoam to get most of the gunk out.

Part Three: Top End Cleaning

here comes the fun part: cleaning the engine internals! NOTE: park your car in a VERY WELL VENTILATED area for this step as high amounts of toxic fumes will be pouring out of your car.

as you recall, we have half a can of seafoam left. this half a can will be used to clean out your cylinder banks. in order to do this, we need to locate a vacuum line to directly feed the seafoam into the engine. the favorite vacuum line is the brake booster line. for those unfamiliar with the brake booster, here is what it looks like:

the brake booster is the big, black saucer shaped object behind the brake fluid holder against the driver’s side firewall in case you can’t tell by the picture.

we will be sucking the seafoam into the brake booster hose marked by the red arrow. (note: some people prefer to suck the seafoam in through the PCV line. this is also acceptable, although i have never done it.)

first thing you wanna do is start the car and let it warm up until the engine reaches closed loop. basically, start your car and wait for the engine to warm up to normal operating temperatures (5 - 10 minutes depending on outside temperature). after the engine is nice and warm, turn the car off. now we’re going to disengage the brake booster line.

for this, you may need a pair of pliers and a flat head screwdriver. there is a little metal clip holding the brake booster hose to the brake booster. you want to take a pair of pliers, compress the clip and slide it down the hose a few inches. now that the clip is out of the way, you need to disengage the brake booster hose. this can be a bear if you’ve never done this before. my car had 80,000 miles on it when i seafoamed it and that sucker was stuck on there tight (it’s a vacuum line, it’s glued by high pressure). you may need to take the flat head screwdriver and jam it into the vacuum line and wiggle it off the brake booster. this may take a while. it took me a lot of pressure to get the hose off the booster. you may have to pull pretty hard.

once the hose is off, you’re gonna want to find a small funnel that will fit into the brake booster hose. i do not recommend simply jamming the hose into the seafoam and letting the engine suck it up. this makes it very hard to control the amount being sucked up and could flood the engine far too fast causing it to prematurely stall out.

now that you have a funnel jammed into the brake booster hose, start the car. you’ll notice your rpm’s are very high, likely around 2000-3000rpms. this is because your brake booster hose being disconnected is causing a massive vacuum leak. you’ll be able to feel the engine sucking air down the funnel.

at this point, you have half a can of seafoam left (8 ounces). you should, in your head, divide that into three equal parts. you’re going to want to SLOWLY pour the first two thirds of the seafoam left in the can into the engine via the funnel. the engine will start to sputter and choke as you pour in the seafoam. you DO NOT want your engine to stall out. go as slowly as possible pouring the seafoam into the engine as necessary so the engine does not die. do this for the first two thirds of the mixture. with the final third of the seafoam, quickly dump it down into the funnel. the idea here is to stall out the motor, suspending the remaining gulp of seafoam in the cylinder banks (don’t be alarmed if your engine bay is smoking the entire time this is happening). if your car does not stall, quickly run and turn off the key.

do not start the car for at least 15-20 minutes. we want the seafoam to soak in the motor good and hard to get all that nasty carbon out of the engine.

while the engine is sitting and soaking, with the key out of the ignition of course, get that bottle of seafoam deep creep i told you to buy.

seafoam deep creep is to be sprayed inside your throttle body. disconnect your hose running to the throttle body so your throttle body blade is showing. get a friend to push down on your gas pedal so the throttle blade opens. if you don’t have a friend at your disposal, a brick or something will do just fine to hold the gas pedal down, anything to keep the throttle blade open. again, your engine is to be OFF during all this.

once you can see inside your throttle body opening, spray seafoam deep creep into throttle body, fully soaking the blades, the bottom, top, and up and down into the intake manifold behind the throttle body. use a good amount of seafoam. don’t be too conservative, but the whole can is far from necessary. use your judgement. get it in there nice and deep but there’s no need to flood anything!

reconnect the throttle body hose, the brake booster hose, the clip back on the brake booster line and anything else you may have disturbed during the seafoaming of your car.

now we will just wait for the remaining time to pass before you can start your car back up.

okay, now that 15-20 minutes have passed, it’s time to start your baby back up. this may be a challenge. the engine is flooded with liquid so it may be a lot harder to start that usual. this is completely normal. once your car is started, let it idle for a good 10-15 minutes. your car is likely to smoke profusely. if it does not, lightly tap your gas pedal. do NOT rev the engine like a madman. when i say lightly tap, i mean gently tap the rpm’s up to no more than 1500. a blip is all that is necessary. if it doesn’t smoke too badly, it’s because your engine just wasn’t that dirty.

after the car has been sitting idling for 10-15 minutes, take the car out for a spirited drive. the key word here is spirited. you want to rev your car nice and high and get all that seafoam into all the valleys of the engine. this is the perfect excuse to completely run the balls off your car. if you look behind you, you will likely see a long trail of blue smoke dusting out the entire highway. say good-bye to the culprit carbon buildup killing your power, gas mileage and causing your engine to ping.

congratulations! you have successfully seafoamed your car. be amazed as your car revs faster, your gas needle moves slower, your idle is smoother and yes, even your exhaust smells less noxious

NOTE: seafoam is O2 sensor safe and will not damage your spark plugs or catalytic converters with responsible use. this means as long as you’re not seafoaming your car constantly and using far above the recommended dosages, you should be fine. it’s probably good to do this process every 10,000 miles to keep your car in tip-top shape.

The Problem:

The 93-97 optispark distribute commonly malfunctions on higher mileage vehicles or if you get it wet. Some people notice immediate problems with the optispark after washing their engine.

The Procedure:

You will start with disconnecting your negative battery terminal.

Then remove all the intake tubing, elbow, maf, etc.

Then remove your ICM bracket along with the coil (they are connected as one) which is held by two nuts/bolts [14 or 15mm] along with the ground wires). Ofcourse, unplug all of the connections going to the coil and ICM prior to removing them.

[red dots indicate the two bolts and blue dots indicate plugs/straps that need to be removed]

Drain coolant from drain plug located at the bottom of the radiator.

Remove all hoses connected to the water pump and kinda push them aside. Now is where the fun starts.

Remove the water pump by removing the 6 bolts (9/16 deep socket). Driver side should take a few minutes to get the 3 bolts out, and the passenger side should take longer. One of the bolts on the passenger side in right behind the AC pump pulley, so in order to get it out, you will need a swivel-head to get in there,and by removing the belt (takes likes 1 minute), it would be a hell of a lot easier to get to. You may have to get underneath the car for some of this stuff (removing 2 of the water pump bolts, removing the belt, etc.). When you get the water pump off, make sure you don’t lose the sleeve that connects the drive gear from the water pump to the drive gear on the cam. The connector will be on either side, just don’t lose it. Now comes the opti.

First you will have to remove the balancer (crank pulley-[3] 5/8 bolts) using a puller that you can buy from advanced auto parts for like $30 and return it for a full refund when you’re done.

Once you remove the pulley, it’s pretty straight forward. If you have a vented opti, remove the two hoses going to the opti, then disconnect the optical plug very carefully so you don’t snap the clip (GM gets expensive with stupid little plugs like that).

Once you do that, label all of your spark plug wires (using duct tape or somethething), remove them from the opti and begin removing the (3) 10mm bolts.

If you have a 93-94 it should be just a gear on the back of the opti with a little notch. If that’s the case, make sure you line up that notch with the notch inside the timing chain cover.

If it’s a 95+ car/opti, the cam dowel has to be lined up with the oval on the opti

Connect vacuum lines, optical plug, wires, and put everything back on.

Now do everything you just did backwards and put it all back together (Don’t forget to scrape off the old gasket off of the water pump housing). Make sure you put RTV sealant on the water pump gaskets (to stick onto the pump) and also apply it on the water pump bolts)

Install water pump (bolts should be torqued at 31 ft/lbs) and connect all hoses.

Install the Harmonic balancer (bolts should be torqued to 75 ft/lbs) and put the belt back on

make sure you connect all the ground wires/straps when installing the ICM/coil bracket on to the head.

Fill cooling system using your preferred coolant (I use straight distilled water with a bottle of water wetter and water pump lubricant - runs a bit below 180 for me), and DON’T FORGET TO BLEED THE SYSTEM via the two bleeder screws

Written by : Mano Kiriakopoulos (Also known as 1badzee)

The most common question is 2.5″ or 3″ true duals, and here is your answer.
A 2.75” (stock) single system is good for a 310hp engine with zero loss…
A 3” Single system is good for a 370hp engine with zero loss…
A 3.5” Single system is good for a 503hp engine with zero loss…
A 4” Single system is good for a 657hp engine with zero loss…
A 2.25” dual system is good for a 457hp engine with zero loss…
A 2.5” dual system is good for a 513hp engine with zero loss…
A 3” dual system is good for a 812hp engine with zero loss…

Heres what your gonna need for a 2.5″: * All from SummitRacing.com *

* The next item is only if your using Pacesetter Longtubes *
* Hooker and Jethot Longtubes do not require this step *

I went to the local autozone and got a single 2.5″ pipe with slip fit connectors on both sides. Messured out 4 1/4″ and cut the pipe in two peices.

Quantity: 2 at Autozone * Pacesetter Longtubes Only *

You want to have the long tubes installed on the car before starting. I mocked up the exhaust by propping it all up with books and cans etc.. mark everything with numbers and lines if you welding everything off the car. I just tack welded everything and finished welded it off the car.

Weld it all up and don’t for get to slide on the collector rings!

Before you install the exhaust your going to need to mount the hangers. I used the exsisting rear seat belt holes as shown:

Next, shield the fuel lines and clearance the frame:

Heres the fun part. Install them. Here are some final installation pics:

Ground clearance is excellent: * this is the 2.5″ kit *

You have to lay the radiator back almost until the upper radiator hose touches the ABS mounting plate (1/4 inch gap). Pull the condenser out of it’s holding tabs and drop down. Tap down the top of the condenser. Bend the upper condenser hose to fit. Trim the radiator top. Trim the upper radiator support to fit your particular size air filter. Make some new holding straps/and or make a new cover. Cut the cross brace in the hood, just above where the Air intake will sit.

This write up was done for a 93-97 camaro. I am uncertain if a 93-97 firebird will be the same.

The Procedure

Many of us still have our stock air filter box in the standard location (in front of the drivers side front wheel well). Some of us have bought cold air intake systems, cut open the bottom of the filter box, or both. Others have different filters, but have them located in the same “hole” in front of the wheel well.

All of these situations have something in common: location. The area in question is about 1.5 cubic feet in volume and has several small openings by which air can flow. For lack of a better term, I will call this area the air well. Unfortunately, these openings are relatively small and most of them suck air from under the hood (air that is already heat soaked). The only passage that leads to fresh outside air is located underneath the bumper.

The problem: when you stomp on the gas, the LT1 will quickly suck air out of the tiny 1.5 cubic foot air well where the filter resides. At 5,000 rpm, the LT1 consumes approximately 8 cubic feet of air per second! As air is depleted from (sucked out of) the air well, a (slight) vacuum is created inside the air well. The vacuum inside the air well causes air to enter the air well from wherever there is an opening into a (larger volume) space. It is important to realize that the smaller the holes in the air well, the less pressure you are going to have. It is the same effect as driving your car to the top of a mountain (where the air pressure is reduced) and running your car. The higher the air pressure at your intake, the more power you will make.

The solution: Any solution that supplies more air to the air well is a positive solution. The LT1 ram air scoop featured here has two purposes: (1) to increase the amount of outside (cooler) air available to the intake, and (2) to use an air scoop to increase the air pressure inside the air well at higher speeds.

The Procedure

1. Cut a piece of aluminum flashing into the shape shown above. I initially bent mine over a 4×4 piece of wood, so as a result, the size of my scoop ended up being 7 1/4 inches long x 3 5/8 inches wide x 3 inches in height. The flashing that I used was thin enough that all the bends that you see in the metal above were done with my bare hands and the corner of a piece of wood. Notice the lips on the sides and back of the scoop. These will go inside the air well later.

2. Cut out a rectangular hole in the bottom of the air well as shown above. When cutting the hole, cut the width of the scoop but do not include the lips on the scoop when making your measurements. Also, cut as close as possible to the outside (farthest from camera) of the car since the filter box is actually sitting directly over the hole in this picture.

3. Now push the scoop up through the hole with the lips (edges) of the scoop inside the air well as shown above. You can now place your hand inside the scoop to hold the scoop tight against the plastic and drill eight very small holes through both plastic and metal (don’t drill through your fingers though). These holes are only to guide the small screws. When tightening the screws, only tighten them a half turn or so past when you feel pressure since the flashing will tear easily if you try to make them tight. They should stay in without a problem. Since the lip of the scoop is on the inside of the air well, the air entering the scoop at high speed will only serve to tighten down, not pull the flashing away from the screws.

4. Now that the scoop is in place, you’ll want to cut off a small section of the front air dam so that air can enter the scoop easily at speed. Notice that the air dam has been cut off not flush with the left side of the scoop, but a little more than an inch past this so that turbulence from air passing by the air dam does not disturb the flow entering the scoop. At this point, I have not done any pressure testing inside the air well as it turned out to be more trouble than I thought, mainly because the air well has no easily accessible openings without removing the filter box. The amount of ram air effect is also unknown at this time. Obviously, the larger the scoop, the more air (and therefore pressure) will be injected. The size of the scoop pictured here is totally arbitrary. Scoops of (significantly) larger size are possible, but note by looking at the picture above that extending the scoop further to the right may require an odder shape due to the shape of the bumper cover.

What about rain?

I always get asked “do you have problems in the rain”. In short, the answer is no! The air filter box is actually quite a bit above the scoop and isn’t attached directly to the scoop so even if you were to drive through water deep enough to get in the scoop, it would have to slosh around in there for a while (meaning you’d have to be driving through the water for some time) before it got up to the level of the air box. As far as just heavy downpours, driving rain, or driving on the freeway with a lot of splash: no problem whatsoever because once again, the actual air filter is not connected to the scoop. I’ve been driving with this mod for about 6 years in all weather without trouble, but as with any “free mod”, do it at your own risk.

Performance gains?

I didn’t really notice any seat-of-the-pants improvement in performance, but the car no longer bogs down after sitting in traffic or hot weather while idling. The purpose of this mod isn’t to give a true ram air effect, rather, it is to open up the area where the filter resides to cool outside air. Sucking cool air from under the car is a lot more efficient than sucking it through the hot engine compartment so I definitely noticed more consistent performance particularly in hot weather.

The problem: When installing 1.6 roller rockers the clearance of the ugly stock valve covers is to tight.

The solution: Grind the alternator to clear the taller valve covers.

The benefits:
Can install 1.6 roller rockers
Welding not required
Cheaper than $200 composite LT4 valve covers
Looks great!

The Procedure

1. Remove belt & alternator
2. Remove the useless brace that tie the alternator to the intake manifold. Now BEFORE you ask, I haven’t run this brace for about 3 years, many others have run without it for years.
3. Remove that PCV tube from the valve cover to the throttle body.
4. Remove valve covers. ( 8 - 3/8″ bolts)
5. Get a file, Die Grinder, Dremel or something that grind aluminum.

6. Now on the rear of the alternator there is a little round ear as outlined in this picture. That little ear is what needs to be removed. It isn’t much at all and shouldn’t take more than 30 minutes of work or so.

7. This is what the alternator should look like when it is done.

8. This is what the covers had to clear.

9. Put the valve covers and and test fit with the alternator. Everything should clear, but if not, grind a little more.

10. Re-install the alternator and belt.

Here are some final installation pictures:

http://ken.lowrance.com/projects/CSIwaterpump/Default.htm

Supplies:

E4 Torx head screw $0.50
Wing nut $0.25
Jam nut $0.10