The methods used here were by me and if you use a different method that is fine, this is just what has worked well with me.

Supplies you will need:

- SBC damper puller
- 5/8 Socket
- Ratchet
- Torque Wrench
- Breaker Bar
- Spare Bolt and Washer

Removing the LT1 Crankshaft Hub

For a manual transmission, the only thing required to do is put the car in 5th gear and pull the e-brake. If you have an automatic transmission you need to keep the engine from turning. I chained up the crank hub to the frame but their are several ways of doing this. Using a breaker bar and 5/8 socket, loosen and remove the crank bolt and remove the chain.

Rotate the engine until these arrows are lined up. This will help with reassembly.

Find a spare bolt or rod that is smaller in diameter yet longer in length than the crank bolt. Also find a washer that will fit inside the crank hub. I will measure these later and post the correct sizes. Grind off the threads to prevent damage to the crank threads.

Insert the junk bolt into the crank and then washer. The washer will keep the puller aligned on the junk bolt. It’s best to use a junk bolt that has a cup shape on top.

Install the damper puller onto the hub and begin tightening. It might take some torque but the hub will pop and start to slide off.

SBC damper puller in action.

Here is a quick animation I made:

Here is what it looks like with the crank hub off.

Installing the LT1 Crankshaft Hub

First thing you need to do is turn the motor over till the #1 piston is at TDC (Top Dead Center). I just installed the crank bolt and manually turned it.

The cam dowel pin should be on the left.

Clean and polish the end of the crank hub. If there is rust or dirt on the end it could damage the crankshaft hub seal. Ad a film of oil on the polished area before installion.

It is recommended that you use a tool to install the hub. You can build a cheap one using these directions: http://members.cox.net/gmarengo/Misc/Misc.htm You can also just tap the crankshaft hub onto the crankshaft but you risk damaging your thrust bearing. With the arrow pointing straight up, line up the hub with the line on the timing cover. Use your install tool or a piece of wood to tap it on so you don’t mushroom the hub. Some people like to heat up the hub before installation.

Once you’ve installed the hub, chain up the crank hub and tighten it till you reach 65ft lbs.

Remove the chain and you are finished. Rotate the engine over one full cycle and verify that the mark it still lined up correctly.

Tools Required:
•Basic set of metric and standard sockets and wrenches.
•Sawzall or reciprocating saw.
•Dremel tool with cut-off wheels and grinding stones.
•Benzomatic torch w/ Mapp gas.
•Soldering gun or wire crimpers.

Additional Parts:
•Idler pulley (Pulley from A/C Delete Bracket works well)
•1-1/2” x 1-1/2” x 6” Piece of “L” steel
•1-1/2” x 1-1/2” x 6” Piece of flat stock steel
•New 6 Rib serpentine belt Dayco 52-1/2” (May Differ)
•Miscellaneous washers and bolts (Grade 8 )
•Small length of wire to lengthen alternator plug (18 Gauge)

Disassembly Steps:
1) Get the front of the car up on jack stands so you can comfortably work from underneath and up top. I jacked up the front and rear.
2) Disconnect battery and remove for easier access to that side of the motor.
3) Remove serpentine belt.
4) Remove Alternator (ALT) connections followed by the alternator itself. I believe there are (3-4) 13mm bolts holding it in place.
5) Disconnect the Power Steering (PS) fluid hose and PS hard line connections to the pump. Remove (2) 10mm bolts, they are accessed through the PS pulley, so you will need a long socket or extension.
6) Remove the front sway bar and end-links to gain access to the AC compressor.
7) Remove Air Conditioning (AC) Compressor lines, rear bracket, and compressor unit. There are (3) 13mm bolts on the front of the unit.
8 ) Remove the spark plug wires that route along the accessory bracket.
9) Remove the (4) 14mm bolts holding the Accessory Bracket (AB) to the passenger side cylinder head and block and pull the accessory bracket out of the car.
10) Remove the (2) 10mm belt tensioner bolts and tensioner.

Bracket Modification/Fabrication:
A) Cut AB as needed to get the ALT as close to the bracket as possible.

B) Make additional cuts to the AB as needed to allow the spark plug wires easy access to the Optispark.

C) Cut an appropriate length of 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” “L” channel to create the bracket that will bolt to the AB and back of the ALT.
D) Drill 1 hole large enough to run a bolt through the top hole of the alternator so that is can pass through the bracket and be bolted from the back. I used the longest 13mm bolt which held the ALT in place up top.
E) Drill (2) 5/16” Holes through the AB and L-Channel. These holes will allow the L-channel to be bolted to the AB. I used (2) 5/16” x 1” Grade 8 Hardware with washers and lock nuts.

F) Cut an appropriate length of Flat Stock Steel approximately 2” x 6”to create the extension bracket that will bolt to the side of the engine block and back of the ALT.

G) Drill (2) 5/16” Holes through the flat stock. These holes will allow the flat stock to be bolted to the Block Bracket. I used (2) 5/16” x 1” Grade 8 Hardware with washers and lock nuts.
H) Drill (1) additional hole to bolt flat stock to the back of the alternator. Washers will be needed to fill up some of the gap between the bracket and alternator. Refer to picture above.
I) It is also possible that (1) ear on the alternator will need to be cut a small amount. This will help with the serpentine belt alignment. I felt it necessary to cut the ear on the alternator because that hole does not have threads, and the AB does.

J) Disassemble all brackets and parts, prep and spray paint or coat as you wish.

In Car Assembly:
1) Bolt ALT to AB and bolt motor with (4) 14mm bolts.
2) Bolt PS Pump to AB and tighten the (2) 10mm PS bolts. Connect the PS hard line to the threaded hole in the pump and tighten. Make sure you do not lose the o-ring.
3) Bending or heating of the hard line may be needed in order to route the PS hard line correctly around the ALT and down to the PS Rack. This took quite a bit of trial and error in my application. A wire coat hanger can be bent and used as a good reference. I used a Benzomatic torch with Mapp gas to heat the tubing in order to bend.
4) Connect the other end of the PS hard line to the steering rack and tighten.
5) Lengthen the ALT connection wire about 6”-8”. I used solder and electrical tape and hid the wire in the loom before routing it down to make the connection to the ALT.
6) Route your Spark Plug wires down to the Optispark and connect. Make sure the correct wires are on the correct leads.
7) Connect the large rubber PS reservoir hose to the PS pump. I used a new hose clamp for this.
8 ) Bolt in your idler pulley to the top of the AB and tighten.
9) Install tensioner and tighten (2) 10mm bolts.
10) Route your serpentine belt. Check for interference between any hoses, wires, or objects.
11) Re-fill PS reservoir as needed
12) Re-Install front sway bar including endlinks.
13) Re-Install battery and connect cables.
14) Turn over motor and check for leaks, sounds, belt clearance. Add fluids if necessary. Also have someone blip the throttle a few times to make sure the alternator does not contact the frame.

Finished Results:

1. The first thing is to relieve the pressure off the shrader valve on the fuel line, located beside the fuel pressure regulator on the rear of the intake.
2. Remove the fuel lines using the correct fuel line disconnect tool.
3. Then remove fuel lines from clip on inner fender.
4. Then Jack up drivers side front, place jack stand under car and remove drivers side front wheel.
5. Then remove inner fender
6. At the point where the fuel lines go thru the inner fender you can there push the Grommet for the fuel lines out of fender.
7. Carefully cut the grommet on the bottom side and remove it from the lines. ( Do this in a neat way as this grommet will be reused)
8. Gently pull the fuel lines thru the inner fender.
Looking to down on the brake master cylinder, to the right of it there is a small flat area (see picture) and in this place you will drill a 2” hole from the inside of wheel well.

10. Then you will need a 2” grommet or rubber pipe coupler to place in the holes.
11. Then the part where you must be careful, the fuel lines can be kinked but if you take your time there is no issue. Gently push the fuel lines thru the grommet.
12. Then route them behind the power brake booster and come in from the back side of the intake.

13. Connect fuel lines up to the fuel rail.
14. Pull any slack back out from under hood, ensure lines are free and clear.
15. Carefully loop the fuel lines one time in a large loop. Then start where they come up from the subframe at thru the plastic holder and I used some zip ties about every 3”’s around the loop keeping it uniform.
16. Then I mounted one bracket inside inner fender just to fasten the lines to in one spot and fastened them to it keeping it pulled tight against body.
17. Replace inner fender, replace tire, jack back up and remove stand, then lower car back on to ground.
18. Reinstall grommet in fender
19. Smile as you have just completed the mod.

This write up was done by LALT1